Framing With A Passion Pg 2
Special
Framing
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GLAZING.  Glass or acrylic should be free of scratches and blemishes including small bubbles in the materials.  If should be properly
cleaned so there are no streaks or foreign particles sticking to it.  Only picture framing quality materials should be used.  Glass or
“plexiglass” products purchased at the hardware store for instance are not framing quality and are not free of defect.  If you have purchased
a preservation quality glass, a sticker is attached to the back of the frame that shows exactly what glass was purchased and how to care for
it.

SPACER.  Spacer is used to separate glazing from artwork when there is no mat present  or the keep glazing from touching items in a
shadowbox.  It can be made of a thin plastic that attaches to the glazing and is generally not visible unless you are really looking for it. But,
make sure it is there if you are framing without a mat.  Unless you have a very large piece of artwork – over 60 inches – the spacer should
be applied in a single strip, not spliced.  It should not be visible when you are looking straight into the frame.  Spacer is also made from mat
covered foamboard to line the inside of a shadowbox frame.  Rules are the same – no splicing unless the piece is over 60 inches; if
properly fit, the edge of the matboard or foamboard will not be visible along the inside edge of the frame.

ASSEMBLY AND FITTING.  There should be no specks or foreign particles under the glazing, on the matboard, or art.  The perimeter of the
mat should be uniformly spaced all around (unless of course you have specified an asymmetrical mat).  The mat should be snug around
the artwork – no gaps (unless the artwork itself is very wavy).  The backing board has to be installed the correct way to ensure this.  

In the case of a wood frame, the back will be sealed with a black paper backing.  The backing paper should fit neatly to the outside edge of
the frame.  A properly installed hanging system will use hardware to accommodate the weight of piece.  WE never use the little saw tooth
hangers that attach to the top middle of the frame.  They are notorious for coming loose resulting in broken glass and possibly a broken
frame and damaged artwork.  We also avoid screw eyes as they are not always reliable either.  However, if the frame is very thin on the
back, that is sometime all you can use.  Wire should be neatly and tightly wrapped with equal amounts of wrapped wire at each end.  We
often use a hanging system called “Wallbuddies”.  This is a wireless system that provides added strength to the corners.  It is a self
leveling system that is especially good when the art is long, oversized, or heavy.

Metal frames are generally not sealed on the back.  This is usually okay since metals are generally used for framing inexpensive prints and
posters.  However, even valuable artwork sometimes looks great in metal frames.  If appropriate, we can seal metal frames with a paper
backing just like we do wood frames.
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